Spanish Head lies at the South West tip of the Island and provides one of the most impressive cliffs on the Island, which is well worth a visit. The easiest approach is as for the Chasms, but follow the well worn path along the edge of the moor until, after dipping down to a small stream, it rises again to the top of the crag. Scramble steeply down the grassy slope to the foot of the wall.
01
DONCELLA ~ 370′ ~ VS
From the rock strewn platform below the crag scramble down and the up to a large white ledge, then down to a small black ledge near the left end of the crag. This fine route follows a crack line close to the arete.
1/70′ 4b Follow the crack to a small black ledge.
2/70′ 4b Move right and up a chimney, then left to the top of a pinnacle. Move left into a groove and climb this to a poor stance. 2a/40′ 5a Climb the overhanging continuation of the crack direct to join the ordinary route.
3/40′ 4b Move left to a steep crack and then follow this to a good stance.
4/20′ 4b Traverse left (exposed) and up a steep wall to a good ledge.
5/100′ 4b Climb right and up a steep groove to easier rock, then up and slightly right to a stance on the ridge.
6/70′ 4b Move right and up on good rock.
TROUBADOUR 350′ VS 4c
Start at the right end of the large white ledge at the foot of the crag, where a grey intrusion of rock forms a left facing gangway. the route climbs this past the overhang to good ledges, then makes a rising traverse to join Doncella at the start of the fifth pitch, and finishes up this route.
PICADOR ~ 360′ ~ VS 4c
A good route, but very serious due to poor quality rock in places, especially at the top. Start at the right end of the rock strewn platform.
1/80′ Climb the steep wall, trending right, then move left to a belay below the overhang.
2/60′ Surmount the overhang on the right to reach a diagonal block crack and follow this left, then up right to a grass ledge and belay below a prominent overhang.
3/100′ Climb to a point just right of the overhang, then up the edge of an earthy grass scoop until a move left is possible onto a steep wall. Climb up this to a grassy amphitheatre and belay on the right.
4/120′ A fine but serious pitch. Walk to the left of the amphitheatre and climb a pedestal then continue up the pock marked wall moving right, until a delicate traverse left can be made to the ledge. Climb past a large ledge then make a rising traverse right along a loose wall to an overhung ledge. move left along this and climb through an exposed break to the top.